Carver Wrage

English 1111

Dr. Drake

11 September 2003

Go, Carpet, Go

           1) Have you ever watched Trading Spaces, that reality show where neighbors spend two days in each others’ houses and for $1000 and the help of a professional decorator and carpenter redo a room? Some of the ideas are really weird, such as the room decorated to look like a Pullman sleeper or the one where the walls were covered with straw. However, most of the ideas are great, particularly when the decorators decide to eliminate carpet and go with wood floors. [Comment 1]

           2) As you have noticed, the show doesn’t go into a whole lot of detail about how the carpet is removed to get to the wood floors—probably because the process is not particularly exciting and it is time-consuming. However, if the carpet is juteback and not glued to the floor, the process isn’t difficult. As a result, with the right tools, the time, and a good back, you can get that carpet up and out the door to begin your quest for a floor that Trading Spaces would envy.  [Comment 2]

           3) Before you begin the process, begin with the right tools. [Comment 3]  Have a plastic scraper, claw hammer, pliers, and a couple of flathead screwdrivers for pulling nails and staples. Also have a sharp razorblade box cutter or good pair of strong scissors for cutting the carpet into strips. If you have a small prybar, you might also find that tool helpful. To help make the time more pleasurable, I also suggest that you have a radio or tape-player handy. I particularly find books-on-tape helpful since I can listen to an entire novel while I’m working, and the problems of the characters make my own aching back less noticeable. Oh, also add some Bengay and ibuprofen to the list since your back probably will end up aching because you will spend a lot of time bending over and pulling. [Comment 4]

           4) Step one is to plan out how to remove the carpet most efficiently. [Comment 5] The best method is to divide the room into logical sections and remove carpet, pad, and nails and staples section by section. [Comment 6] Clearing a section entirely of carpet, pad, and hardware is best because you can keep track of nails and staples better if you remove them in smaller sections. Also if you take breaks between sections, you won’t have to worry about stepping on nails or staples left in the bare floor. [Comment 7]

           5) Step two [Comment 8]  is obvious. Clear the room of the furniture as much as possible. [Comment 9]  If you don’t have room for all the large pieces, such as sofas or heavy dining room tables, [Comment 10] you can shift the furniture around as you tear up the carpet in the cleared section of the room. However, when you do move the larger pieces to the recently cleared hardwood, you must be careful to scratch the wood floor as little as possible since deep scratches will be difficult to sand out when you (or a professional finisher) get to that process. [Comment 11]

           6) Once you have a cleared room or a cleared section, [Comment 12]  go to a corner of the room and grab the carpet with your pliers and pull up. [Comment 13] The carpet will likely be stapled or nailed along the side of the room, [Comment 14]  so put some effort into that pull. Eventually the carpet will pull back revealing a foam pad beneath. Tear up the carpet in long three or four-foot sections [Comment 15]  since if you are working alone, it is much easier to cut the carpet if some of it is still stapled to the floor. [Comment 16]

           7) Cutting the strips of carpet is not difficult, particularly if you have a good razor blade in your box cutter [Comment 17]. [Comment 18] Cut from the top or carpet side and simply move the blade through the juteback. [Comment 19] Make the strips as long as you want, but remember that you must be able to carry the roll out of the room and to the dumping place once the sections are rolled up. As a result, you may want to keep the sections to about twelve feet. [Comment 20] 

           8) Once you have the carpet removed from the room or section [Comment 21] , tear up the pad. [Comment 22] Since the pad is foam [Comment 23] and already in sections, it should come up easily. You can often remove it as you roll it up. However, you might find that occasionally the pad has stuck to the floor. [Comment 24]  Use your plastic scraper and remove those leftovers as much as possible. [Comment 25] If some foam pieces seem permanently stuck, leave them since the sander will take care of any fossilized pieces. Discard the foam roll and pieces. [Comment 26]

          9) So far, so good, and you’re probably only one or two chapters into the book-on-tape. [Comment 27]  Don’t get cocky. Now comes the tough part. You will have noticed that once the carpet and pad are removed, numerous nails and particularly staples have remained behind. Peeling up the pad may have taken a few staples with it, but most will remain. You must remove all of the staples and nails since they will prevent the sander from working and, until you get around to sanding and polishing, will probably wreck havoc on your feet. [Comment 28]

            10) Use the claw hammer, prybar, and pliers on the nails. [Comment 29]. You may be tempted simply to pound them into the floor, but avoid that temptation and use it only when you can’t get a nail out. The extra nails make sanding and polishing less effective, so keep those nails to a minimum. [Comment 30]

            11) The staples are more easily removed with pliers and flathead screwdrivers than with the hammer. [Comment 31] Pull up as many as possible with the pliers only since the screwdriver can leave scratches if you have to use it to pry up the staples. However, some staples will require the screwdriver. [Comment 32] You must get up all the staples because they do not pound flat into the floor. If you break a staple, use the pliers to pull up both ends. Only in dire cases where you absolutely cannot get the pliers on a particularly small end of the staple should you pound it into the floor. [Comment 33] 

            12) Once you have cleared a section of carpet, pad, and hardware, [Comment 34] sweep it thoroughly to pick up any nails or staples or slivers that may provide a painful surprise to your feet, hands, and knees as you begin on the next section. [Comment 35] After you have completed all sections, clean the entire floor carefully. You may want to use the suction hose on a vacuum cleaner as well as a damp mop to ensure all sharp material has been removed. [Comment 36] 

            13) Your floor may look a bit rough at this stage, [Comment 37] but keep in mind that you will want to sand and polish it to give it that finished look. However, you don’t have to rush. Put your furniture back, lay down a few scatter rugs, and make the decision about sanding and polishing later. [Comment 38] 

            14) Your work is done, and hopefully the book-on-tape is over as well. If not, lie back on your clean floor, [Comment 39] rest your back (here’s where you may turn to the Bengay and ibuprofen), and finish the book. Eventually you will deal with sanding and polishing, but maybe you’ll get lucky and Trading Spaces and your neighbor will complete that step! [Comment 40] 

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